Monday, September 14, 2009

Gulmarg --- The Meadow of Flowers

Mughal Emperor Jahangir was greatly obsessed with Kashmir. The pleasure enjoying king is said to have journeyed Kashmir eight times along with his full entourage and created the gardens of Achabal, Shalimaar and Verinaag. In 1627 when he was nearing his death he was asked what he was thinking, he said, “Kashmir, only Kashmir!” The famous Persian couplet ‘gar firdos bar roy’e zamin ast; hamin ast’o hamin ast’o hamin ast’ was his exclamation while enjoying in Kashmir. Such are the emotions of everybody whosoever visits this Paradise on Earth.
Kashmir is famous for a number of world renowned tourist spots but to me Gulmarg crowns them all. Gulmarg is about fifty kilometers from Srinagar, a saucer shaped valley high up in the base of Affarvat Mountains. The actual mountain ridge starts from Tangmarg, a beautiful small town, another tourist attraction. Till recently the road from Tangmarg to Gulmarg was covered on foot or on ponies but the newly constructed motorable road has facilitated the movement of tourists and all. The steep but comfortable road on the ridge provides breathtaking view of the dense pine forest and the greenery around.
The resort really fit for a king was discovered and founded by Yusuf Shahi Chak, the lover of Kashmir legendry melody queen Habba Khatoon (Zoon) and named it as such. Gul-Marg is a Persian word meaning ‘the meadow of flowers’. Until almost end of February everything here is painted with snow – the streets, pine branches, the roofs and the mountain peaks around. In summer there’s always a nip in the air and the atmosphere is filled with the scent of pine and deodar. The vast green lawns are here and there dotted with tiny wild multicolored flowers and at places a full garden of hues spread deliciously by the divine artist. The natural setting of the resort is almost undisturbed by the human hands except the small market-place and some hotel buildings raised on the elevated margins of the valley. The Gulmarg Golf Club set up by the British in 1904, the Maharani Temple and the St. Mary’s Church is a sight to see. During British rule Gulmarg was far better active than today. It used to be a permanent home to various British retired bureaucrats, army officers and others with their families during summer who enjoyed life to their full in their tiny bungalow type huts spotted here and there without disturbing the aesthetic beauty of the meadow and as such all facilities were provided for them by the local administration. Lots of Kashmiris served them in different capacities and thus became a source for their living.
The world renowned Gulmarg Ski project provides sport to lots of fun loving people on the vast natural snow slopes in winter. It keeps the snow bound meadow full of activities in winter too though the inflow of the tourists had reduced to bare minimum during the recent years of militant threat and is picking up again.
Gandola Cable Car is an addition of modern technology to the place. It’s said to be Asia’s highest and longest Cable Car Project, the two stage ropeway which ferries to and from Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of the nearby Affarwat Peak (4200 m) and a beauty to see. Next in priority is Khilanmarg, a 600 metre ascent from Gulmarg, the site of famous winter Ski runs and which provides magnificent views of Nanga Parbat, Nun and Kun peaks from the top and tourists throng there on ponies to return before dusk. Then there’s the worth seeing Aalepather, a frozen lake about 13 kilometers trek from Gulmarg deep into the mighty slopes of Affarwat peak.
The tourists prefer to visit the shrine of Baba Reshi (Baba Payam-ud-Din Reshi) at a brief down trek from Gulmarg within dense forest area. The pir who died in 1480 was a courtier in the palace of King Zain-ul-Abidin. The holy man’s tomb is beautiful with latticed woodwork and the local people along with tourists throng there in all seasons to seek favours.